Paris Trip Tuesday 24 January 2006
Cemetry Pere Lachaise and Musee d'Orsay

We managed to wake up and get showered a bit earlier today. We were down at breakfast by 9am enjoying coffee and croissants. Again the weather was cold and clear, with a biting cold wind, which was only partly offset by the weak sunlight.

We had planned to take the metro down to Musee d'Orsay, but our train was stopped at Barbes Rochechouart due to a failed train somewhere. We had sat on the train for a while, but eventually a fairly final sounding announcement was made and everyone left for other connections.

As it happened we were able to connect to the line that goes to Pere Lachaise station, so we changed plans and decided to go to the Pere Lachaise cemetry to see the grave of Jim Morrison. It was easy to find a map of the cemetry to buy at a kiosk near the station, and armed with this we headed in to look for the grave.

Pere Lachaise Metro Station

Metro station on the way to Pere Lachaise

Pere Lachaise Cemetery Map Layout

Layout of Pere Lachaise

The cemetry was quiet, with only a few groups of people roaming around, most probably with the same intention of looking for the grave of the lizard king. Pere Lachaise is a large cemetery and the many small plots are laid out butted right up against one another.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery Graves Paris

Dense layout of graves at Pere Lachaise

On the way around the cemetry, we saw lots of beautiful statuary and monuments.

Pere Lachaise Grave Statue

Statue on grave

Pere Lachaise Stained Glass Crypt

Crypt with stained glass

Pere Lachaise Statue

Cool statue

Pere Lachaise Statue

Another great statue

After walking for about 20 minutes, we found the crypt of Heloise et Aberlard, a tragic love story.

Pere Lachaise Heloise et Aberlard

Heloise et Aberlard

Pere Lachaise Heloise et Aberlard History

History

After this we found the grave of Jim Morrison, which was surrounded by barriers, though I did manage to get a picture. JimMorrison

James Jim Morrison Grave Pere Lachaise Paris

Jim Morrison's Grave

There were some other very attractive sculptures and stained glass present in some of the crypts, but our destination was the crypt of Oscar Wilde, who is buried here. Sadly, when we found the crypt it was defaced, which Wilde himself probably would have been appalled at. Ghastly, dear boy, simply ghastly.

Pere Lachaise Grave Oscar Wilde

Grave of Oscar Wilde

After looking at the cemetery, we ended up heading East towards Place Gambetta, where we found a photo shop. I bought some extremely expensive CR2 batteries for the reserve battery holder for my D70, as I had neglected to charge it the night before. I also acquired a SanDisk Extreme II 1.0Gig compact flash for 80E which will allow me to shoot pictures a bit faster than with the generic branded flash card currently in the camera. We looked around a little more, before settling on a little Bar Restaurant to eat lunch at. Meredith had Hamburger with a fried egg on top, and I had a Steak au Poivre, both were extremely rare, but also delicious. I think we're still waiting for a really bad meal, though my spaghetti carbonara last night wasn't the best.

After paying the 22.40E for lunch, which included a diet coke and an excellent cappaccino, we entered the Gambetta metro station and caught a train to Republique. Here we changed and went South to Gare d'Austerlitz. At this point it wasn't very clear on what to do. Gare d'Austerlitz is a mixed station with RER and suburban trains, and RER C which we needed to get to Musee d'Orsay was tucked away downstairs, behind what seemed like a mini-mall. Down on platform A, it wasn't clear about with of the two available platforms to wait at, so asked a French lady, who tried to help us understand. Sadly, she talked just a little too fast for my weak language skills, but we eventually worked out that any train at either of the platforms would be just fine. As indeed it turned out, emerging right at the Musee d'Orsay.

Musee d'Orsay is built in an old railway station building, and looks fantastic, both inside and outside. There are some interesting sculptures outside and the building facade is clean and handsome.

Musee d'Orsay Facade Front

Musee D'Orsay Facade

Musee d'Orsay Statues

Statues outside Musee D'Orsay

Inside the Musee d'Orsay, the feeling is of a modern cathedral with a huge airy and naturally lit open space. People roam around amongst sculptures with feeling of relaxed contemplation. There were several parties of children, probably on school trips, who seemed to be having fun.

Musee d'Orsay Kids Museum

School kids waiting to wreak havoc

Musee d'Orsay Interior Train Station

Cathedral like Musee D'Orsay Interior

Musee d'Orsay has a fantastique collection of art, both paintings and sculpture. There are many acknowledged masterpieces and during January, like now, it is not incredibly busy. The main collections of paintings are spread out in bright airy rooms on several levels around the edge of the building.

Musee d'Orsay Painting Room

Painting room at Musee D'Orsay

Musee d'Orsay Masterpieces Painting Room

Painting Room with Several Masterpieces ;-)

It's worth noting that photography is permitted, though obviously flash photography will not be tolerated around such priceless works of art. It seems kinda silly to photograph art anyway, so I (mainly) refrained from risking it near the paintings.

Musee d'Orsay Painting

Painting that caught my eye

Musee d'Orsay Pointillist

Some pointillist

Musee d'Orsay Degas Renoir

Degas painted by Renoir(?)

And one of my favorite parts of Musee D'Orsay was the wonderful restored clock.

Musee d'Orsay Clock

Restored clock at Musee D'Orsay

Musee d'Orsay Photographer Horse Statue

I wasn't the only photographer

We splashed for a cab after visiting Musee D'Orsay as Meredith was tired from all the walking and stair climbing, and the cab dropped us at the Jules Joffrin metro station. For a late second lunch, or early dinner, depending on how you look at it, we walked up to a Patisserie and purchased a Croque Monsieur, a big slice of pizza, a slice of Flan and a Royal Chocolate. This gace us a pretty good meal in the hotel room, and after eating, Meredith napped, and your faithful correspondent worked on downloading pictures, and this vacation blog.

After a while, it was time to eat again, and we enjoyed some Italian food at a nearby restaurant. Meredith had bolognaise and I had saltimbocca and a half bottle of wine.




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